Walks – Liddington

Around the Village

Maurice Spillane — Wed, 23 Jul 2025 12:12:05 +0000

Distance 4k

This is a short walk that every villager has done at some stage.

However, I’m encouraging you to take longer this time, to stop and look around. The village has old buildings and a church, a graveyard and lanes, the places where history and stories are hidden for the most part. This is an opportunity to share with a visitor to the village, as there’s nothing like a good story to enhance a walk.

Where to start? The Green is the oldest area in the village. The village was originally focused around the triangular old “Green” to the east, now bordered by some of the earlier village cottages, and extended to the west to All Saints’ Church and Parsonage Farm. The Green was located at the junction of the ancient long distance east-west route known as the Icknield trackway and the north-south route from Swindon to Hungerford, named The Street.

Three beautifully thatched cottages invite you up the short road. The 7th Duke of Marlborough, a black sheep who courted controversy, sold these houses to residents in 1877 to settle debts on Blenheim Palace.

In the past the Green was the common between the houses until someone put up a fence and then everyone followed.

The first house on the right has a layout that shows where horses were stabled and was probably a smithie as well.

The next house #17 was built in the grounds of #16 by Joel Joffe (more about Joel later) for his sister but she never emigrated from South Africa.

At the top of the road, Cobblers’ Cottage #18, was actually two cottages. Cobbling was undertaken here for a wide customer base across Swindon.

Around the corner at the top are two modern houses.

Turn around and follow the lane to the Village Inn. This lane has the honour of being the shortest public way in the village.

The houses on the right are owned by Arkell’s Brewery, as is the pub.

The Village Inn was originally called The Bell and there is a hint to its former identity in the road in which it stands – Bell Lane. In fact, the first Bell stood on the other side of the road before the owner, John Whitling, put up the present building in 1875. The original building, which dates back to at least 1789, was demolished in 1894. After several changes of ownership the pub was eventually renamed in 1982 and Arkell’s bought it in May 1994.

But first, admire the old signpost which is slowly giving up the ghost. A recent bit of amateur engineering has given it life for now. The Parish Council have agreed to replace it, like for like.

On the far side of the hedge is an old farmhouse. You can get a better view from the entrance. Mike Dixon was the last farmer there. When he retired the house was renamed Rhodes House, and the less said about that the better.

In the middle of the junction is the Toll House. The main road from Swindon to Aldbourne passed to the right of the house and tolls were taken through a window.

This road was turnpiked in 1813. The Toll house was built at its junction with Icknield Way, with toll gates across both roads.

Traffic was horse-drawn in those days, moving at a more leisurely pace.

So, that’s the centre of the village. We’ll now walk down to the left past the Toll House and the Village Inn along Bell Lane.

We’ll pass the house of one of our oldest residents, Kay. She has campaigned quietly to have the pub renamed “The Bell” – too quietly in my view. I suggested a demo with placards and lying prostrate in the road, but she didn’t want to go that far.

There are fine homes on the left-hand side as you walk further down.

We’ll come to a signpost for Ham Road, named after the road where pigs were taken to market in Swindon or “Swine-town.” This is also the boundary with Wanborough, though most people on Ham Road are active members of Liddington parish. The village should declare a Unilateral Declaration of Independence on Ham Road.

Today, we won’t go to Ham Road, as we’re following the path to the right. It is signposted Joel Joffe Way, and we’ll get to that name in a few minutes.

We’ll be walking by the River Lidd on the public path. It’s usually quiet along here, the stream like an orchestra and the birds chattering as the backing choir.

On the left we’ll come across a stile with the remains of a sign on it. That used to be the entrance to the Coombe.

By definition a Coombe is a small valley through which a watercourse does not run. The valley is indented on both sides by lynchets, a feature of ancient field systems. They are uncommonly in horizontal rows and often referred to as “strip lynchets”. The size, location, spacing and number of rows of many strip lynchets indicates that many were man-made.

It is most likely that lynchets were dug to maximise the use of land for agriculture, although they may have had other, ceremonial uses.

For decades this was a permissive path. Some of us have had permission to walk it, and to be honest, even without permission we should walk it as it’s a stunningly beautiful valley with full views of sunset and sunrise from the high points. And it’s on our doorstep.

There are conversations with the estate in Newbury that owns the Coombe to see if we can get permissive access again.

At the end of the pathway, we’ll see the Manor House on the left. That’s worth stopping to admire. It stands on the source of the Lidd or the Liden brook which gave its name to the Parish.

It’s interesting that The Domesday Book records the village as Ludentune (Saxon translation: “The homestead on the noisy stream”) and later, early church records called it “Ludingtun.”

In the grounds of this late 16th century house is a lake which formed the mill pond for the upper of two mills on the brook, both of which have now been demolished.

The 7th Duke of Marlborough sold this house in 1877. That would’ve paid a few debts!

Joel Joffe lived there for many years with his wife, Vanetta, a successful artist. Two wonderful people, both now dead. Joel has many claims to fame, a member of the House of Lords, active campaigner for assisted dying, founder of Allied Dunbar insurance company in Swindon, activist in several charities, an all-round decent man.

Joel was born in South Africa and became a lawyer there. In 1963, he represented Nelson Mandella and six others in the famous Rivonia trial where the expectation was that they would be hanged for subversive activities as members of African National Council and the Sword of Light. Joel managed the defence team around the trial and briefed the barrister, Bram Fischer.

Joel’s book, “The Rivonia Trial,” later renamed “The State versus Nelson Mandella” is required reading. You’ll find second-hand copies for a few pounds and free postage on www.bookfinder.com.

You can read Joel’s obituary: https://www.theguardian.com/world/2017/jun/26/lord-joffe-obituary

You can also hear him being interviewed by Kirsty Young on BBC’s Desert Island Discs:

https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/b0084b4l

I was a teenager back in those days and became obsessed with the trial, reading about it daily. The names stayed with me: Nelson Mandella, Walter Sisulu, Bram Fischer, Joel Joffe. The injustice was over-powering for my generation.

In 1964 when the Anti-Apartheid Movement was founded in Ireland, I and my friends were at every demonstration. Our leader at the time was Kader Asmal, later a member of Mandella’s government.

Those demonstrations impacted me to the point that I read everything I could find about African independence movements. Eventually I emigrated to Zambia in 1972, just married, which is a whole other story, but I did realise my dream of visiting many countries in Africa during turbulent times.

I had many a good conversation with Joel and Vanetta about those times when I came to Liddington. I’m sure many villagers could add similar stories.

Joel kept a close relationship with Mandella and the others. After independence he was invited to events in South Africa and Mandella would often point a finger at him and say jokingly: “If you’d done your job, I wouldn’t have gone to prison.”

Finally, an interview on BBC Great Lives featuring Joel Joffe as an expert witness on Bram Fisher is fascinating:

BBC Audio | Great Lives | Nick Stadlen on Bram Fischer

Turn right after the Manor House and follow the pathway to The Street. Turn right and left by the bus shelter into Spinney Close.

The bus shelter featured in a short movie made by village teenagers for the Parish Plan about what should be done for them. As in Beckett’s “Waiting for Godot” where nothing happened twice, those teenagers were prescient.

The video was named after the Parish Chair at the time, a good-natured man, Gordon Wilson. Thus, it was called “Waiting for Gordo” – and though grainy, it’s still a hoot to watch.

https://liddington.org/waiting-for-gordo/

As you walk left by the green in Spinney Close, you’ll see a signpost for Liddington Hill. It’s a short path to the main road, B4192.

Be very careful as the cars start to speed up from your right as they leave the village, encouraged by a 40mph sign to your left. Honestly, who dreamed that one up!

In 1939 the village, unfortunately, was split in two when the B4192 bypass for the Swindon-Hungerford road was built separating the settlement around the Green in the centre of the village from the area around the Church. The vicar at the time wouldn’t allow the road to be built behind the graveyard, and we’re still encumbered by that short-minded decision.

On the far side of the B4192 you’ll see another sign for Liddington Hill. Go down the steps away from the noise of the road.

It feels like a different country – quiet, well-trimmed hedges, a lovely deciduous wood to your left.

You can let dogs and children go free now.

On our right, we’ll pass the beautiful grounds and building of The Old Rectory.

This has been renovated recently with exceptional affinity for the property. I’m sure the owners won’t object if you discretely stop and admire the rendered brick construction, the slate roof, and the beautiful sash windows.

The gardens have been renovated with a walled vegetable area and manicured lawns. It’s breath-taking and so much work in only a few years.

At the end of the path veer left by the signpost and after 20m or so, we’ll come to a gate into a farmer’s field. Enjoy the blush of red and yellow plums just before the gate!

Go left and on to a permissive path around the field. Please watch your dog and do clean up. The farmer uses the grass here for silage and dog poo causes serious illness in cattle.

This is a wonderful permissive path around this iconic field with its extraordinary vista opening up to you as you gain height.. We are lucky to be granted access by the farmer, Nigel Warren.

This is our first view of Liddington Hill. The Ridgeway is an ancient route which crosses the Parish from east to west along the top of the chalk escarpment which forms Liddington Hill. In the past this was a long distance routeway along the downs, then a drove way for animals and poultry heading for London. In recent years it has become a famous long-distance footpath.

Walking slowly along the hedge to our left and we’ll see an old path in the hedgerow. You can go in and come out further up – children love this hideaway so let them explore.

This was a historic path for the movement of sheep to and from Liddington Hill. It’s overgrown now and on a village plan to reclaim the path and make it more accessible.

Bring a bag, because on the hedge line itself there are the best sloes in Wiltshire – bush after bush, just crying out to become sloe gin for the winter!

When you get to the end of the field, work out what would’ve been the continuation of this path delineated by he hedge across the M4 into a cultivated field and then the hedge snaking up the hillock towards the Clump.

In the Middle Ages there were settlements along this path but there’s no evidence of them now..

If the Parish Council in the 1960s had any foresight they would’ve insisted on a footbridge over the M4 here and secured the history of the ancient access. Chiseldon village, only a couple of miles up the road, fought hard successfully for such a footpath bridge.

Go right to the next corner of the field. In front of you is a lovely valley going nowhere now, known locally as The Dell, again a pre-M4 shepherds’ path. You can trace the outline of where it would’ve gone up to Liddington Hill over seventy years ago.

Along the hedgerow and above the valley to your left you should see and hear birds around you, the lark ascending, raptors seeking lift from the uplift heat in the valley and then diving for prey, lots of small tits and robins. It’s a gorgeous walk.

In early morning I’ve regularly seen roe with their white bobbing tails and little muntjac scuttling like lost dogs. Only on a few occasions have I seen fallow with an inverted horseshoe on the their rumps. That’s three of the six deer in England. Only red deer, chinese water deer and sika are too shy for this part of the country.

We’ll see the playing field off to our right in front of the church from here. The permissive path will take us to the corner of the play area.

Left along the fence, counting five trees and we’ll come to a stile. Over we go, and we’re in the playing field.

Hopefully, there will be children playing on the equipment and kids playing soccer. It’s a joyous part of the village with the attractions designed for young people.

Align with the two posts of the goal with the far fence and that’s where we’ll go next. Go straight through.

There is another entrance to the far left into the graveyard. Don’t go that way, as we’ll catch the church and graveyard later.

The path follows an obvious loop, passing three houses of note. On the right is Parsonage House and on the left is The Old Barn.

My first visit to Liddington was in 1993. A close friend lived in the Old Barn. Her daughter was christened in the church so I’ve a long relationship with Liddington.

Parsonage House has been sympathecially renovated front and back by the current owners and what a change.

If you fancy a detour, a lane goes between Parsonage House and The Old Rectory and if the season is right, there are gorgeous yellow plums as bounty.

Do admire the dry stone wall by the path.

Continue to the end and view the back garden of Parsonage House, wonderful work in progress. I get greenhouse envy there!

Turn back to where the lane started and we’ll continue our walk.

Here is another view of the The Old Rectory. You can see the elegance of the house, the striking colours of house and mature trees against the sky and hill, a beautiful place.

We now have the Lych Gate on our left with a Latin cross on the roof. It was originally thatched.

Lych is Anglo-Saxon for corpse. The 1549 Book of Prayer required the priest to come to the Lych Gate to receive the coffin and commence the burial service.

The Lych Gate features a plaque on the south wall dedicated to eight Liddington soldiers. It always feels good to stop here and remember those young men.

The oldest building in the Parish is the Church of All Saints, and despite the restoration in the late 19th century much of the 13th century building is still visible in the chancel and north aisle.

The square, three stage west tower dates from the 15th century and the whole church building sits comfortably in the church yard.

If the church door is open, it’s well worth a calming sojourn inside.

Follow the path to the right behind the church with the graveyard on your left. The roll-call of names on the tombstones is a legacy to the old farming families and residents of the village.

Now we come to the Village Hall, a huge community project built some thirty years ago to replace the old 1851 school.

Some of the old parts of the school have been incorporated into the new building. The hook to tether the schoolmaster’s horse is hidden behind the blindingly bling fibrilator – a current controversy.

Liddington Village Hall is more than just a venue; it is a charming and versatile community space designed to accommodate a variety of events and activities. In many ways it is the hub of the village.

Walk downhill and around to your left on the path beside the B4192. It’s not far to the crossroads.

Go no more than 10m to your left towards Badbury and cross that road into a farm field, known affectionately by the villagers as The Horse Field.

You can walk to the left and around the field, a regular walk for dogs and horses every day. It’s a permissive path granted by the Peploe farming family.

At the first corner there is a gate where the official path crosses the field diagonally and into a tilled field. The locals don’t use that path as there’s no sense in walking across the crops.

Enjoy the horses further down the field. They’ll come to say hello and you can offer them a handful of grass but nothing else – no dog treats or fruit or anything else!

There are some serious blackberry bushes at the bottom of the field and on the hedge in the next field. Fill your boots, as they say!

Lots of sloes as well, the Autumn fruit of the beautiful blackthorns which are wonderful in flower along here in Spring.

At the next corner, turn right and follow the path about halfway up the field beyond the telegraph post. You are aiming for the corner to your left near the road where the two hedges converge.

Beyond that swing gate you can fill your pockets with plums in the season. I wonder why there are so many wild plum trees in the village?

Walk along by the cottages as far as you can see and then down a footpath on your left.

With care. cross the B4192 to the steps on the far side.

Before you hike the few steps to the path behind the hedge, take a moment to admire Jubilee Gardens on your right.

Up the steps now for another vista across the fields. The path goes along behind the roadside hedge, another secret world, known as David’s Path after a previous chair of the Parish Council, David Lomax. His work on this path is celebrated in this extract:

The old iron fencing is warped by curious cattle,

wet noses agog who leaned in from Mike’s Field,

but there is purchase to stare, and stare again,

view the scarp by St. Andrew’s spire and tower,

the grass and crops like waves across the drift,

the family of roe watching you watching them,

and sweep your eyes to where the kite

and the buzzard reenact an aerial battle.

The world is spinning around this refuge,

passing time, time passing,

the pretence that we’re in slow motion

while everything beyond is in a flux of change.

At the end of David’s Path, we’ll exit to the lovely planters in the Jubilee Garden. At Christmas, this is where the Big Christmas Tree stands with lights and a warm welcome to the village.

Follow the road back to the Village Inn in the distance. But before you get to the pub, stop and admire the magnificent thatch on the house on your right. A Master Thatcher, Garry Martin, created this beautiful piece of art over months and months:

There’s no nod to the modern here

just layer upon layer of wheat straw

hand-pinned with split hazel and willow sticks,

knit one purl one to trap the air bubbles

in a set that began with last year’s ricks.

Then the last days, wisps around each rod

until the ridge board, adorned by a necklace

in perfect proportions, the tighter shave

to trim and shape before the encasement,

the sweep of straw and he’s gone next day.

This is the old Post Office and General Store, closed for many a year.

Will, a craftsman, restored the timbers and the old sign as a lovely reminder of our village’s history.

And finally, we are back to where we started. And there’s nothing like the sight of a defibrillator to end a walk, especially when you’re still standing!

Converting the old phone box was a mammoth task undertaken by villagers: Geoff Hale and David Lomax. It looks really good.

And now we’re off to the Village Inn for a pint or a cuppa!

Liddington to Aldbourne

Maurice Spillane — Mon, 14 Apr 2025 10:48:52 +0000

Distance: 8.8Km from the Village Inn. It’s 7.3Km if you park at the Ridgeway cross-roads. Height: 132m

This is a favourite and regular walk with Rocky, and also my favourite run. It’s not a well-used path and the chance of meeting anyone until you get to the dog walkers of Aldbourne is remote. But the beauty of the rolling hills, the expanse and remoteness and yet so close to home, the downhill sprinting for intermittent fartlek runs and feeling “Chariots of Fire” in your head – it’s truly wonderful.

My recommendation is that you plan the route, so you have time to browse and have a cuppa in Aldbourne and then get the bus back. If you have children with you, it can become an adventure.

The bus service is reliable in arriving on time, but the frequency is not good. There are no busses on Sunday or Saturday afternoon. During the week they run every hour. Check the timetable first for 46A, 48, 48A and X46 on https://www.swindonbus.co.uk/services

If you don’t trust the reliability of the bus (!), you could get the bus from Liddington to Aldbourne and walk back.

The walk starts at the Village Inn. Turn left and go up The Street to the end of the road. There’s little traffic on this road.

At the top of the Street be careful crossing the B4192. You’re aiming for a footpath sign on the far side of the road. It’s a bit bent at the present but it’s on the list for beautifying this part of the village.

Go into the field and turn left. This is a permissive path. There was a change of owners recently and the new farmer has very kindly agreed to keep the permissive path.

This will take you to the M4 bridge. Walk inside the barrier and there’s a safe footpath on the verge beyond the bridge that will take you to the crossroads.

NOTE: If you are unsure about this part of the walk from the village, you could take your car and park on the right at the crossroads.

The walk turns sharply away from the noise of the road by a hedge and leads up a short slope to a place worth stopping to catch your breath. You can see the snake of traffic on the M4, Fox Hill where the phone mast is, several dwellings towards the Liddington Hotel and the Burj, a fine Indian restaurant.

The Burj used to be known as the Shepherds Rest pub, and it really irritated me as there was no apostrophe in the name. Was it one shepherd or multiple shepherds? Another conversation with the kids!

Continue over the Ridgeway road on the right-hand side of the road. Just beyond the large roadway sign you’ll see a marker for the right of way on the other side of the road. Be careful crossing the road and you’re into the field. The path is marked to your right. Don’t rush though, as a few steps along you’ll see a fox hole under the path. Lots to chat to kids about there!

Keep walking and soon you’ll move away from the B4192 and you can let your dog and children loose.

You have a good view of Manor Farm. Robert and Charley Bland are regulars in the Village Inn and they can tell a story or two. Go through the next gate and enjoy this lovely track. Even after winter rain, it’s always dry and you can see why it appeals to a runner.

In the images below, on your left, you’ll see two gorgeous deciduous woods, called The Moon and the Half Moon. I had the pleasure of running through them some years back before Robert reminded me that they were private! I have fond memories of them, and even based a short story on the Half Moon.

As this walk was photographed in April, you won’t see the woods in their glory yet.

The track steepens a bit here as you look down on Liddington Warren Farm which has facilities for music events and weddings and is farmed by the Ford family.

You’ll also see sheep so be careful with your dog. I like this sign. It shows respect and is caring – so different to many “keep out of here” aggressive signs.

You now come to another circular gate. Liddington Hill is off to your right and will soon be out of sight. Go left for about a hundred metres and there’s a signpost to go right. Before you turn right, enjoy the view towards the motorway, the silent lines of traffic snaking the brow.

Beyond the gate there’s a lovely deciduous wood. A local told me the farmer doesn’t mind people strolling in there and coming out again about a hundred metres up the hill – which is my way.

This could be a truffle wood. In England, truffles are mostly found near the roots of oak, hazel, beech, and birch trees and this is a perfect spot. Truffles are mycorrhizal with these tree species, meaning they form a symbiotic relationship with the roots, benefiting both the fungus and the tree.

A friend of mine spent a year training his spaniel to sniff truffle oil. He’d dig a hole and put truffle oil in it in and the spaniel was on it so quickly. It was very impressive. He came up here to try the spaniel out on these woods. The spaniel was perfect on truffle oil but not so great on digging for truffles. They’re still safe.

You’re on Sugar Hill now and the beginning of the Barrows that are common around Aldbourne. As you descend, on your right there’s a small mound. This is a bowl barrow about 3m high and 23m in diameter. Most bowl barrows date from the period 2400-1500 BC. The site was partially excavated by Canon Greenwell, a prolific excavator of barrows, between 1885 and 1890. Finds included the cremated remains of an adult set in a cist, or stone-lined box, and covered by a cairn. The cremation was accompanied by a bronze dagger and bone pin.

Walk up it for a good view. Strangely, Rocky won’t walk up it . . .

You’ll see another mound slightly to your right on the far slope, easily identified as the farmer sows around it.

Behind you there is a major mound but it’s on private property in the farmer’s field and it’s easy to get snarled on the barbed wire.

As you pass the brow of the hill, you’ll see a telephone post on its own in front of you. That’s one of my fartlek posts, a kilometre fast run from the top of the slope to there.

It can be exhilarating, imagining the pressure at the end of a marathon, the crowd of thousands clapping the sprint, your heart rate at vo2max.

Except, I’ve never seen a soul up there on my mad sprint. Probably just as well.

You’ll come to the Four Barrows, a linear barrow cemetery, orientated SE-NW, and comprising three adjoining bell barrows and a bowl barrow to the south of the line.

All of the barrow mounds were partially excavated by Canon Greenwell. Finds included cremation burials, amber beads, flint flakes, a grooved dagger and animal bones.

Walk on the right of the barrows to follow the path and send your kids over the mounds to see who gets to the next gate first. You’re on the home stretch now.

If you do this walk in the evening, the sun will settle behind your right shoulder, and you’ll also be in a good place to see the planets in that arc. I often do this walk when the planets are in occlusion (one behind the other) or several are on view just for the hell of it. Again, a beautiful scene all to yourself in dark sky territory.

The path is deceptive here in that it fools you into thinking you’re nearly there. Take your time to observe the remote settlement of houses in the valley to your left. They look idyllic.

You’ll come now to trees and shrubs on both sides of the path and it’s a bit stoney underfoot. But it’s downhill and you’re soon in the lane known as Crooked Cor.

Turn right and walk beside the church. You could take the path at a height here on your right and walk through the church grounds which are delightful.

If it’s an evening walk or run, I can smell a pint of Guinness in the Blue Boar from here and I walk the road.

If it’s a morning walk you could enjoy breakfast in the Post Office, and if it’s later in the day, how about tea and cake in the lovely café behind the library and forge. Both places have the most delightful staff.

I’m sure by now you’ll have figured out which bus you’re aiming for. The bus stop is at The Pond.

Liddington Hill and Clump

Maurice Spillane — Sun, 23 Mar 2025 09:17:34 +0000

Distance: 7.5K Height: 190m

This is one of my favourite walks with several opportunities to deviate or turn back at any stage if the weather is inclement, or the kids complain, or you’re huffing and puffing and decide you’ve had enough.

On a fine day, it’s a glorious walk.

HOW TO USE THE MAP

The red line indicates the walk. Click on the 2D map. It will take you to the Ordnance Survey where you have more detail. You can have fun with several options if you have a subscription – such as the “Fly-through.”

Start by heading along the Street to the B4192. Cross over into Church Road. You can walk up by the Village Hall and into the graveyard where there’s a permissive path. I prefer to go to the top of Church Road and on to the playing field that way. Let the dead rest.

Either way, at the exit from the graveyard in the playing field, go through the swing gates and walk to the right of the playing field.

There are delightful views from this path, so take them in. There’s no rush.

The walk turns left with overhanging branches as if you’re in a tunnel – just like Alice in Wonderland. In the autumn this is the place to pick crab apples on the left and sloes on the right.

At the bottom there’s another swing gate and you’re into an open space. The famous sheep who keep escaping are now on your left and well tethered. When they’re not there that little valley is lovely to explore. You’re bound to see roe deer and rabbits and I’ve often seen a kestral.

Continue down the track to your right. You’ll see some containers where the clay-pigeon guys shoot at 11am every second Sunday. If you’re walking on that Sunday, there’ll be a bell to let them know. They’ll stop and bid you good morning.

If you fancy, ask for Bill Crowley and tell him I sent you. Ask if you can observe and he may even give you instruction and a few shots.

The path goes to the right. It’s usually a bit muddy there. You’ll come to a farm track. Go left at the signpost towards the motorway.

If this is your first visit, be prepared for the cave drawings under the bridge. I think they’re fabulous. I met the artist there a while back and he was so excited about his work it was contagious.

Sometimes it’s wet underfoot in the tunnel. One time, I tried walking on the wall on the right. Great fun for the kids, silly for adults. I got half-way, lost my balance and in the kerfuffle of a huge splash, plus profanity at my sodden dignity, Rocky ran off.

Beyond the tunnel, a rope over a metal rod is on the right of the gate. Take a moment to consider what you do next.

In summer, the field in front of you may have horses or cattle. They are used to people and won’t bother you so you can walk straight on. If you’re anxious, I suggest you go immediately left and up the bank to the fence-line. The animals won’t follow you and you have an escape gate about half-way into the next field.

If you have a dog and there are cattle there, let your dog off the lead. The cattle will only be interested in the dog, and it can scarper between their legs. If you keep your dog on the lead or lift it up into your arms, you’re looking for trouble. Don’t do it.

Enjoy the walk up the field to the Ridgeway Road. Don’t go through the gate. The official path is to your left and through a swing gate. Put your dog on a lead here and watch the kids, as this road has fast cars.

On the far side of the road there’s a gate which will not open. To the right of the gate, you can lift the wire, hoosh your dog through and then climb over. You’re now on a permissive path so stick to the path.

All the paths on the Hill are permissive paths, thanks to Farmer Peploe. Show appreciation by avoiding the animals and being aware of litter.

It’s a steep path, really the only challenge on this walk. Take your time and stop to look back.

I’m always fascinated at how much height you gain in only a few minutes of walking here. There may be sheep in the field so put your dog on a lead.

At the top, there’s another swing gate and you have choices. If you go through and turn immediately left you can walk along the fence to the Clump, about five minutes away.

OPTION

Otherwise, you can cut the walk short. Don’t go through the swing gate. Turn right instead and walk along the fence on the permissive path to Liddington Fort. It’s about 200m to the next gate into the fort.

THE CLUMP

Let’s start with the Clump. It’s an iconic area of trees which you can see coming from London on the M4 or from the train into Swindon. I always get a lift from it, nearly home now.

The concrete bunker is from World War II. During the war soldiers managed a Starlight Decoy bunker from here, placing beacons and fires around the top of the hill. The bunker has a central passage with the control room on the left and a hatch in the roof. The generators were in the room on the right.

The soldiers distracted Luftwaffe bombers from hitting the railway works in Swindon. Usually on a bombing raid, which was normally at night, small incendiary bombs would be dropped on the target by a Luftwaffe plane. This would guide the bombers in. The Starlight Decoy encouraged bombers to bomb the hill instead. There are a few signs on drone videos of bomb craters, though most have been filled in.

Do take a moment to imagine the soldiers staying at night in that bunker.

Behind the bunker, you’ll find a peaceful place of remembrance. It was a mess some years ago, but volunteers cleaned it up and it’s pleasant to walk about and see the names of the departed. In February I was up here with my friend, Simon. He gave a crying shriek and when I went over to him, he’d seen the name of his first girlfriend. He knew she’d been ill, but not that she’d died. It was upsetting and of course became a longer story as we walked on.

I bring a small bag when I come up here and take away any rubbish. It’s generally clean these days but I’m sure you’ll find beer cans and crisp packets that I’ve missed.

There’s a stile into the field by the fence. You can walk back to the swing-gate that way or go back the way you came across the field.

When you get back to the swing gate, you’ll notice a sign for the permissive path to Liddington Camp. It’s not far but make sure you’re walking on the Liddington side of the fence.

You’ll reach a gate dedicated to a walker, Henry King. Go on through and you’re into Liddington Fort.

LIDDINGTON FORT

The Camp, or Castle or Fort or whatever you call it, is amazing.

Walk towards the Trig point and here is a good place to take your ease (Lig do scíth, as the Celts would probably have said in this spot). I enjoy sitting here on my own and thinking about the ages.

This fort was a big inspiration to the nature writer, Richard Jefferies (1848-1887). His museum on the Marlborough Road, just before Coate, is the outer limit of Liddington parish. Strangely, I read recently that he considered Chiseldon as his parish church, yet Liddington is nearer.

He is commemorated here on a plaque, along with Alfred Williams (1877-1930), put up by Liddington Parish Council to mark the centenary year 2000. Alfred Williams is affectionately called “The Hammerman Poet” and he’s the author of “Life in a Railway Factory.” I’m a big fan of his work.

The original plaque was used by American soldiers as target practice in WWII. You can see it in the Jefferies Museum.

HISTORY OF THE FORT

The fort is a late Bronze Age 700 BCE and early Iron Age univallate hillfort. The reason for the emergence of hillforts in Britain, and their purpose, has been a subject of debate. It has been argued that they could have been military sites constructed in response to invasion from continental Europe, sites built by invaders, or a military reaction to social tensions caused by an increasing population and consequent pressure on agriculture.

The dominant view, since the 1960s, has been that the increasing use of iron led to social changes in Britain. Deposits of iron ore were in different places to the tin and copper ore necessary to make bronze and, as a result, trading patterns shifted, and the old elites lost their economic and social status. Power passed into the hands of a new group of people.

Archaeologist Barry Cunliffe believes that population increase still played a role and has stated “[the forts] provided defensive possibilities for the community at those times when the stress [of an increasing population] burst out into open warfare. But I wouldn’t see them as having been built because there was a state of war. They would be functional as defensive strongholds when there were tensions and undoubtedly some of them were attacked and destroyed, but this was not the only, or even the most significant, factor in their construction”.

Hillforts in Britain are known from the Bronze Age, but the great period of hillfort construction was during the Celtic Iron Age, between 700 BC and the Roman conquest of Britain 43 AD.

A PERSONAL VIEW

Followers of King Arthur believe Liddington Hill was Mons Badonicus the site of the Battle of Badon Hill. It was King Arthur’s last battle and a decisive victory over the Saxons sometime around 516-518 AD.

“The twelfth battle was on Badon Hill and in it 960 men fell in one day, from a single charge of Arthur’s,” reads an ancient account, “and no-one laid them low save he alone.”

I know there are lots of other possible sites – many are associated with places called Badon – but this is my choice, and there are experts who agree, so there.

AND ANOTHER STORY!

As this was the Ridgeway, my take on the Liddington fort is that, as a wooden palisade, it would have been a place of refuge at night for travellers and their animals moving along the Ridgeway from coast to London.

Wolves were dominant then and the area below the hill was forested and dangerous. It’s a good conversation to have with children, imagining the walk at height from Barbury Castle to avoid wolves! Turkeys were also herded along the route at a slow pace.

Did you know they wore leather shoes tied at the ankle, otherwise their feet would’ve been very sore! It’s true . . . However, geese wouldn’t allow themselves to be shod so their feet were dipped in tar and covered with sand.

CONTINUING YOUR WALK

As you’ve come this far, you really should walk around the fort and take in the views. You’ll get your bearings from the memorial and identify Barbury Castle and GW Hospital and as far away as Oxford.

And now we head for home which is a lot quicker than coming up!

Go back to the gate and turn right. When you come to the swing gate again, turn sharp left down the hilld, following the disused fence towards the house below. Over the fence but this time get over yourself first and then help your dog through. Cross the Ridgeway Road, being very careful.

Retrace your steps into the field and it’s an easy walk back to Liddington and the Village Inn for a cuppa or a pint.